Hello,
Some of you know that I own and operate the only
European Service Repair Shop
In Southern WV.
I have ben an independent Import Car Service
since the 3rd week in August 1988.
*******************************.
2 days ago,
A customer had brought back his son's 1998 VW Beetle 2.0 Gas
For Service.
Previously,
He had called to ask - back before Christmas if I could
help him with a lack of power issue.
That proved out to need what is called
A MAF - A Mass Air Flow sensor
and
A reprogramming of the computer base settings -
The BIOS had lost it's values and had went back
to Default settings - back when they had installed the battery
a few days earlier.
*******************.
Yesterday,
The check engine light was on again.
The scan showed 8 fault codes.
I removed # 3 & # 4 spark plugs and tightened the upward
screw on tip ends - this eliminated a random missfire that
was being recorded.
I renewed the Coolant temp sender.
I made sure that the throddle plate was clean from plaque
deposits.
*************.
The starter motor was dropping out of service -
Yesterday, it had taken some 26 turns of the key
before the bendix would engage and like the flywheel.
Our Roanoke, VA - VW dealer had shipped their replacement
Starter. And it proved to be a different design starter
that that which was original equipment.
John there asked for the number off the old starter and
checked the application database. Apparently the starter
I was taking off this 1998 - was never supposed to have
ever been on this car ... ?
But the replacement made the engine roar to life the first time.
****************.
Because the battery had to be removed to access the upper
starter bolt ... and it's extreme stubborness to remove ...
Again the Vag Com tool had to be installed and the system
base settings - BIOS values - reset.
*********************.
This little car pulled Independence Hill at 70 MPH and
I was feeling rather good about it all. - No Check Engine light on.
*********************************.
I let the engine set and run for about 20 minutes at an idle.
And the Check Engine light is back on again.
This time with fault codes telling me that the engine was now
running rich ... and that the Idle air Temp was not in spec.
Well,
Based upon past experiences ...
I lean toward proving that the MAF that I had installed
is doing it's job correct - or not.
I have a good supplier in Boston.
Come Monday, i will order a couple to have ...
And get this vehicle back in later toward the end of the week.
I will post a followup as to - if the 2nd replacement MAF corrected
the issue that I am describing or ...
Whether I had to go on toward the oxygen sensors ...
and the reflash of the ECU that VW had to do to keep
the Check Engine light out - over sensitive Oxygen sensor
sweep voltage.
Inother words, one of the fixes that they may have for
some false codes - is to rewrite the base code itself in the
Onboard chips - for actually acting like the nerve - causing the
check engine light to pop on.
In some instances ... they simply change the nerve parameters.
Rowan Cook
http://europeanimportcar.com/
Saturday, January 24, 2009
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Joe McDougal's Ford
Hello,
I am writing to tell you of a particular happening ...
To a fellow who had a replacement engine installed at a local repair
shop - a few years ago.
(Not ours).
************
Joe Mcdougal - a science teacher at one of the local high schools
had Eric Evans at Evans Motors in Beckley replace his engine in a Ford car.
It seems that about 2,000 miles later -
The vehicle was brought back to the shop on a hook.
With Joe's wife in hysterics. ...
****************************.
She said
"I was simply driving along ... and the engine oil pressure light came on ...
and the vehicle stopped.
It would not restart.
And
Because you guys were the last ones to service my vehicle I had it towed back to you."
******************************************************************************
What proved out >
Was that the engine installer there - had grabbed an oil filter
and
Had installed it - without looking up the correct application -
"So Joe says."
He also said
(because I did call him to find out first hand - if this story was
any where near true)
"The Oil filter that they had installed had un threaded itself off of the
pipe nipple ... and was laying on the cross member under the engine."
"The oil pump had pumped the oil pan dry."
"And the engine locked up."
***************************************
Well,
The guys at Evans Motors -
Saw what had happened.
Removed the engine - expecting to find it scored every where
and te-toal ruined.
Putting a breaker bar on the center crankshaft bolt -
Would NOT turn the engine.
*****************************.
By removing the oil pan - no shrapnel was found there.
By removing the rod and main caps - to inspect closely -
No wear or gualing was there.
***************************.
With the Rod and Main bearing bolts slightly backed off,
Turning the center bolt on the crankshaft would push and pull
the pistons in their cylinder bores.
**************.
And so it was that:
A thin coating of Amsoil Strawberry grease was placed on the rod
and main bearings.
The bearing cap bolts and nuts were oiled and retorqued.
The crankshaft could be now turned with a breaker bar -
with normal effort.
The engine was reinstalled back into the vehicle.
*********************************************.
A new Proper Application Amsoil filter was fitted to the engine.
A fresh fill of Amsoil 5.30 1 year/25,000 mile engine oil was installed.
The engine ran -
Without making noise.
Without a lack or loss of power.
As if all of that which did happen - never really mattered.
***************************************************.
Joe and his wife were told by Eric - that:
He would honor a 1 year warranty - and that if anything happened
in that year that caused the engine to fail - that the shop would
correct or replace the engine at no cost to them.
*******************************************.
After Eric told me this story ...
I tracked Joe down and wanted to hear it myself.
Un-believable it was.
But Joe tells me that -
His wife had no more problems with their Ford.
That
They changed the Amsoil 1 time a year - for the next 3 years.
And after having the car for 7 years -
traded it off - for a newer model.
Still running.
Even with having had the engine lockup -
because of NO lubricating oil - between the crankshaft bearings and
their shaft journals.
Hmmm
Rowan Cook
http://europeanimportcar.com/mcdougal.html
I am writing to tell you of a particular happening ...
To a fellow who had a replacement engine installed at a local repair
shop - a few years ago.
(Not ours).
************
Joe Mcdougal - a science teacher at one of the local high schools
had Eric Evans at Evans Motors in Beckley replace his engine in a Ford car.
It seems that about 2,000 miles later -
The vehicle was brought back to the shop on a hook.
With Joe's wife in hysterics. ...
****************************.
She said
"I was simply driving along ... and the engine oil pressure light came on ...
and the vehicle stopped.
It would not restart.
And
Because you guys were the last ones to service my vehicle I had it towed back to you."
******************************************************************************
What proved out >
Was that the engine installer there - had grabbed an oil filter
and
Had installed it - without looking up the correct application -
"So Joe says."
He also said
(because I did call him to find out first hand - if this story was
any where near true)
"The Oil filter that they had installed had un threaded itself off of the
pipe nipple ... and was laying on the cross member under the engine."
"The oil pump had pumped the oil pan dry."
"And the engine locked up."
***************************************
Well,
The guys at Evans Motors -
Saw what had happened.
Removed the engine - expecting to find it scored every where
and te-toal ruined.
Putting a breaker bar on the center crankshaft bolt -
Would NOT turn the engine.
*****************************.
By removing the oil pan - no shrapnel was found there.
By removing the rod and main caps - to inspect closely -
No wear or gualing was there.
***************************.
With the Rod and Main bearing bolts slightly backed off,
Turning the center bolt on the crankshaft would push and pull
the pistons in their cylinder bores.
**************.
And so it was that:
A thin coating of Amsoil Strawberry grease was placed on the rod
and main bearings.
The bearing cap bolts and nuts were oiled and retorqued.
The crankshaft could be now turned with a breaker bar -
with normal effort.
The engine was reinstalled back into the vehicle.
*********************************************.
A new Proper Application Amsoil filter was fitted to the engine.
A fresh fill of Amsoil 5.30 1 year/25,000 mile engine oil was installed.
The engine ran -
Without making noise.
Without a lack or loss of power.
As if all of that which did happen - never really mattered.
***************************************************.
Joe and his wife were told by Eric - that:
He would honor a 1 year warranty - and that if anything happened
in that year that caused the engine to fail - that the shop would
correct or replace the engine at no cost to them.
*******************************************.
After Eric told me this story ...
I tracked Joe down and wanted to hear it myself.
Un-believable it was.
But Joe tells me that -
His wife had no more problems with their Ford.
That
They changed the Amsoil 1 time a year - for the next 3 years.
And after having the car for 7 years -
traded it off - for a newer model.
Still running.
Even with having had the engine lockup -
because of NO lubricating oil - between the crankshaft bearings and
their shaft journals.
Hmmm
Rowan Cook
http://europeanimportcar.com/mcdougal.html
A Broken Crankshaft ...
Hello,
I would like to tell you about a man that came to my shop a few years ago.
He had told me that he worked as a maintenance person for a local
garbage maangement company - where he was responsible for a fleet of
trucks.
He was introduced to Amsoil synthetic lubricants and used them faithfully
over 10 years.
**************.
When he retired ...
A new man assumed his responsibilities.
and one of his first things that this new fellow did for the fleet
was to change the engine oils - all of them - in the first 90 days
of his new job employment.
New man,
New Job.
New beginning - a clean slate -
To know from where he began.
...
And then he called his predicessor ... now saying ...
what is wrong with all these trucks ...?
They are noisy.
They are loud and running hot.
They all started to use more fuel than they did before.
What do you think is wrong with them?
The other - now retired mechanic from the garbage service
simply asked what he had done ... ?
What changed?
"I changed the oil in all of them - using Rotella petroleum oil."
"Enough said"
That is your problem.
The new mechanic never did grasp what was said to him.
And that was the end of that story ...
Because the new mechanic never would use Amsoil products.
*******************************************************.
The rest of this story is that the mechanic telling this story
continues to buy up old Suzuki SideKick kind of vehicles for
$100 here and $200 there.
For over 20 years, he had used Amsoil products.
And the story that he came to me with last year was
that he had a Sidekick that had over 280,000 miles on it.
And that he had never changed the Amsoil synthetic oil in
the motor - filters only - and makeup oil.
And that in late spring last year, the cast iron crankshaft
had simply broken while the engine was running.
Cast iron is hard and brittle - and this is not an unusual thing to happen.
(Sometimes, one can leave a crankshaft standing up on it's end ...
And if someone knocks the shaft over, the crankshaft itself can
actually break or shatter into two pieces.)
I have seen this happen on a camshaft -
at one time or another in the past in my own shop.
********.
The motion of crankshaft breaking - becoming 2 pieces -
damaged the motor block on the existing engine.
*********************.
The whole point I am working to make here is this.
The mechanic I am speaking about - bought another junk motor.
He cleaned up the 2nd motor block.
He removed the piston assemblies - complete with rings with
over 280,000 miles on them - with rod and bearings.
And Main bearings for the original engine.
And reinstalled them over into the second block that he bought.
*********************************************************.
Let me make it clear -
he did not hone the cylinders to install new piston rings.
He did Not replace the rod and main bearings.
They were in near new condition - with minimal wear
and minimal scaring.
***********************.
The cylinder head was clean - there were no deposits to pull the head apart
to send to the machine shop - to worry with valves or seats having problems
and needing to be cleaned - or reseated.
The head and valve cover gasket areas were simply cleaned up - in order to seal
new gaskets to the block and valve cover.
He caught and strained the original engine oil with 280,000 miles
and
Re-installed it into the built engine that he had put together ...
And today has been driving it for the last 9 plus months.
All with no problem.
All with the same rings, rod and main bearings.
All with the same engine oil that has over 280,000 miles on it -
without being changed.
And without the need to be changed.
*********************************.
Guys,
If your engine oil is so poor -
That you are told that it has to be changed every 3,000 to 5,000 miles
"lest it destroy" your vehicle's engine.
By all means - Please change it.
For your own sake - change it - learn what it takes to replace
the false security that you have in using petroleum lubricants that do little more
that steal away from your vehicle a very real possible service life of 2 million miles
or more -
You will never have an engine fail -
because Amsoil synthetic lubricants - laid down on the job.
It is a reverse engineered - impossibility.
The mechanic in question is not myself.
And is available by phone - to himself tell the story.
**********************************************.
Or continue to do it your way.
In my opinion -
It only serves the oil companies who have partnered with
the vehicle manufacturers - to - in all likelyhood - until proven
- really proven otherwise, to sell more vehicles and more oil
and more gas - to the masses.
Not to decrease the number of vehicles owned by the
motoring public in their lifetime.
Not to increase our air quality - like Amsoil does do - by keeping exhaust
discharge emissions to a lower production level across the lifetime of the vehicle.
Not to actually decrease the operating and maintenance costs.
But to sell MORE of everything that "they" make -
A sysenergy self sustaining relationship - that falsely teaches
"How to properly care for one's internal combustion engine"
And does create more sales from damaged motors -
"Protected by short life lubricant products"
That seldom get a vehicle past the 750,000 mile mark.
That really seldom cross the 150,000 mile mark - before you the vehicle owner
starts to squirm and worry about what is going to fail - now -
And what it is going to cost you ...
********************************.
Amsoil products put an end to this false vehicle service life.
and
Your ongoing worries about high dollar engine replacement services.
You can NOT ruin an engine by following Amsoil's directions for
using their 1 year/25,000 mile service life lubricants -
for the life of your vehicle - 20 years and beyond.
You can ruin it - by using petroleum engine oils.
Just ask Durango owners from days gone by.
Driving down the road happy one moment ...
A rod hanging out the side of the motor block the next.
All with the dealer - claiming that you did not change the engine oil when you were supposed to do ... with you having the receipts in your hand - showing that you did.
... And they did the oil changes for you.!
Rowan Cook
Lifetime Dealer.
http://syntheticlubricants.org/
I would like to tell you about a man that came to my shop a few years ago.
He had told me that he worked as a maintenance person for a local
garbage maangement company - where he was responsible for a fleet of
trucks.
He was introduced to Amsoil synthetic lubricants and used them faithfully
over 10 years.
**************.
When he retired ...
A new man assumed his responsibilities.
and one of his first things that this new fellow did for the fleet
was to change the engine oils - all of them - in the first 90 days
of his new job employment.
New man,
New Job.
New beginning - a clean slate -
To know from where he began.
...
And then he called his predicessor ... now saying ...
what is wrong with all these trucks ...?
They are noisy.
They are loud and running hot.
They all started to use more fuel than they did before.
What do you think is wrong with them?
The other - now retired mechanic from the garbage service
simply asked what he had done ... ?
What changed?
"I changed the oil in all of them - using Rotella petroleum oil."
"Enough said"
That is your problem.
The new mechanic never did grasp what was said to him.
And that was the end of that story ...
Because the new mechanic never would use Amsoil products.
*******************************************************.
The rest of this story is that the mechanic telling this story
continues to buy up old Suzuki SideKick kind of vehicles for
$100 here and $200 there.
For over 20 years, he had used Amsoil products.
And the story that he came to me with last year was
that he had a Sidekick that had over 280,000 miles on it.
And that he had never changed the Amsoil synthetic oil in
the motor - filters only - and makeup oil.
And that in late spring last year, the cast iron crankshaft
had simply broken while the engine was running.
Cast iron is hard and brittle - and this is not an unusual thing to happen.
(Sometimes, one can leave a crankshaft standing up on it's end ...
And if someone knocks the shaft over, the crankshaft itself can
actually break or shatter into two pieces.)
I have seen this happen on a camshaft -
at one time or another in the past in my own shop.
********.
The motion of crankshaft breaking - becoming 2 pieces -
damaged the motor block on the existing engine.
*********************.
The whole point I am working to make here is this.
The mechanic I am speaking about - bought another junk motor.
He cleaned up the 2nd motor block.
He removed the piston assemblies - complete with rings with
over 280,000 miles on them - with rod and bearings.
And Main bearings for the original engine.
And reinstalled them over into the second block that he bought.
*********************************************************.
Let me make it clear -
he did not hone the cylinders to install new piston rings.
He did Not replace the rod and main bearings.
They were in near new condition - with minimal wear
and minimal scaring.
***********************.
The cylinder head was clean - there were no deposits to pull the head apart
to send to the machine shop - to worry with valves or seats having problems
and needing to be cleaned - or reseated.
The head and valve cover gasket areas were simply cleaned up - in order to seal
new gaskets to the block and valve cover.
He caught and strained the original engine oil with 280,000 miles
and
Re-installed it into the built engine that he had put together ...
And today has been driving it for the last 9 plus months.
All with no problem.
All with the same rings, rod and main bearings.
All with the same engine oil that has over 280,000 miles on it -
without being changed.
And without the need to be changed.
*********************************.
Guys,
If your engine oil is so poor -
That you are told that it has to be changed every 3,000 to 5,000 miles
"lest it destroy" your vehicle's engine.
By all means - Please change it.
For your own sake - change it - learn what it takes to replace
the false security that you have in using petroleum lubricants that do little more
that steal away from your vehicle a very real possible service life of 2 million miles
or more -
You will never have an engine fail -
because Amsoil synthetic lubricants - laid down on the job.
It is a reverse engineered - impossibility.
The mechanic in question is not myself.
And is available by phone - to himself tell the story.
**********************************************.
Or continue to do it your way.
In my opinion -
It only serves the oil companies who have partnered with
the vehicle manufacturers - to - in all likelyhood - until proven
- really proven otherwise, to sell more vehicles and more oil
and more gas - to the masses.
Not to decrease the number of vehicles owned by the
motoring public in their lifetime.
Not to increase our air quality - like Amsoil does do - by keeping exhaust
discharge emissions to a lower production level across the lifetime of the vehicle.
Not to actually decrease the operating and maintenance costs.
But to sell MORE of everything that "they" make -
A sysenergy self sustaining relationship - that falsely teaches
"How to properly care for one's internal combustion engine"
And does create more sales from damaged motors -
"Protected by short life lubricant products"
That seldom get a vehicle past the 750,000 mile mark.
That really seldom cross the 150,000 mile mark - before you the vehicle owner
starts to squirm and worry about what is going to fail - now -
And what it is going to cost you ...
********************************.
Amsoil products put an end to this false vehicle service life.
and
Your ongoing worries about high dollar engine replacement services.
You can NOT ruin an engine by following Amsoil's directions for
using their 1 year/25,000 mile service life lubricants -
for the life of your vehicle - 20 years and beyond.
You can ruin it - by using petroleum engine oils.
Just ask Durango owners from days gone by.
Driving down the road happy one moment ...
A rod hanging out the side of the motor block the next.
All with the dealer - claiming that you did not change the engine oil when you were supposed to do ... with you having the receipts in your hand - showing that you did.
... And they did the oil changes for you.!
Rowan Cook
Lifetime Dealer.
http://syntheticlubricants.org/
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Francis Walker 2003 Acura RSX
Hello,
I wanted to tell you about this family's vehicle.
She and her husband brought it to us today - 21 jan 2009.
A 2.0 Liter engine now with 84,299 miles
************************************
We changed the engine lubricant and filter today with our
# 13 filter and our 0w20 Amsoil engine oil.
Her costs were $ 83.39.
**********************
August 1st 2007 - this same vehicle was brought to us
with 54,055 miles showing on the odometer.
Which means that she traveled over 30,000 miles in 17 months.
************************.
If we were showing what it does cost to do petroleum oil changes ...
If we calculate that petroleum oil cost $ 3 per quart.
That the better oil filters cost $ 6 per change.
And
That there is $10 labor charged per oil change ...
Then 10 X 10 = $100 labor.
Then 10 x 6 = $ 60 Filters
Then 3 x 4.75 (each change) x 10 = $142.50 for engine oil.
This totals $302.50 without taxes.
The amount of money saved between using Amsoil 0.20
and some petroleum oil change x 10 for 10 oil changes
is $ 219.11 Saved in pocket.
*****************************.
She did not have to schedule the time for the oil changes
out of her busy driving schedule.
She did increase her fuel mileage.
And in the event that the thermostat did stick while
she was out on the road - making her sales calls ...
She could have driven the vehicle to the closest
repair - service center for a new thermostat or waterpump
without doing any - any internal engine damage.
Crankshaft, camshaft, pistons, rings, journals or bearings.
***************************************************.
5 years of doing this nets over $1,000
not spent out of pocket
for petroleum oil changes that are not capable of doing the
same work - even when they are new - poured straight out
of the bottle into your vehicle's engine.
Not including the repair work that does not ever
really need performed - as a result of using our
synthetic lubricants.
*******************.
The results are real.
I will use this saved and strained engine oil
with over 30,000 mile on it - as make up oil for
my wife's or any othe customer vehicle that makes
it into the shop - needing topped off.
There is no intake manifold to have gaskets leak
antifreeze into this Acura ... and it makes
for a zero risk to continue to use this oil.
*************************************.
The 25,000 mile insurance did expire.
And
That was the only real reason to change this oil.
******************************************.
Had it had the dual remote filtration.
Or
The Tamden Parasite filtration systems,
We would have taken a hot oil sample,
Had it analyzed,
And then changed the filters only -
if the oil came back as suited for continued use.
Amsoil produces near indestructible lubricant products.
Rowan Cook
http://syntheticlubricants.org/
I wanted to tell you about this family's vehicle.
She and her husband brought it to us today - 21 jan 2009.
A 2.0 Liter engine now with 84,299 miles
************************************
We changed the engine lubricant and filter today with our
# 13 filter and our 0w20 Amsoil engine oil.
Her costs were $ 83.39.
**********************
August 1st 2007 - this same vehicle was brought to us
with 54,055 miles showing on the odometer.
Which means that she traveled over 30,000 miles in 17 months.
************************.
If we were showing what it does cost to do petroleum oil changes ...
If we calculate that petroleum oil cost $ 3 per quart.
That the better oil filters cost $ 6 per change.
And
That there is $10 labor charged per oil change ...
Then 10 X 10 = $100 labor.
Then 10 x 6 = $ 60 Filters
Then 3 x 4.75 (each change) x 10 = $142.50 for engine oil.
This totals $302.50 without taxes.
The amount of money saved between using Amsoil 0.20
and some petroleum oil change x 10 for 10 oil changes
is $ 219.11 Saved in pocket.
*****************************.
She did not have to schedule the time for the oil changes
out of her busy driving schedule.
She did increase her fuel mileage.
And in the event that the thermostat did stick while
she was out on the road - making her sales calls ...
She could have driven the vehicle to the closest
repair - service center for a new thermostat or waterpump
without doing any - any internal engine damage.
Crankshaft, camshaft, pistons, rings, journals or bearings.
***************************************************.
5 years of doing this nets over $1,000
not spent out of pocket
for petroleum oil changes that are not capable of doing the
same work - even when they are new - poured straight out
of the bottle into your vehicle's engine.
Not including the repair work that does not ever
really need performed - as a result of using our
synthetic lubricants.
*******************.
The results are real.
I will use this saved and strained engine oil
with over 30,000 mile on it - as make up oil for
my wife's or any othe customer vehicle that makes
it into the shop - needing topped off.
There is no intake manifold to have gaskets leak
antifreeze into this Acura ... and it makes
for a zero risk to continue to use this oil.
*************************************.
The 25,000 mile insurance did expire.
And
That was the only real reason to change this oil.
******************************************.
Had it had the dual remote filtration.
Or
The Tamden Parasite filtration systems,
We would have taken a hot oil sample,
Had it analyzed,
And then changed the filters only -
if the oil came back as suited for continued use.
Amsoil produces near indestructible lubricant products.
Rowan Cook
http://syntheticlubricants.org/
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
2002 VW Jetta
Hello,
An unusual thing happened yesterday.
Perhaps it is usual for you - but it is mentally aggravating for me.
A woman caller called.
She did not bother to introduce herself.
She proceded to say;
"I have a question for you".
"I have a 2002 VW jetta.
The window has dropped down."
"I understand that it is a common failure."
"What is wrong with it.
What part or parts need ordered."
"Make it so - so that I get this handled immediately -
Without you ever taking the assembly apart to see
what the problems are."
**********************.
My reply was that:
She needed to bring the vehicle to the shop.
That the door panel must be removed.
That the underlying fault must be identifed.
That the window regulator may need renewed completely ...
or that there may be other issues in hand.
***************************************.
It was as if - I was talking to a wall.
Or at least another language - which she had no interest
in understanding.
After a split moment of no silence ...
she started rattling on again.
I finally had to say ...
You are asking more than a human being can give.
Bring the vehicle to our shop for evaluation.
Then we can really discuss the final costs.
Not good enough of a response.
****************************.
The more she talked ...
The less I wanted to work for her.
and we will not - I guess ever see her.
***********************************.
She was someone who wanted to talk the work to death.
And
Wanted to know the end of the story -
Before even the first page was written.
I guess that I am saying here >
That the process does not change > ever.
Bring the vehicle.
Wait until it is checked.
Order the needed parts.
Install the replacements.
Verify proper operating conditions.
**********************************.
Renew any other defective pieces or parts
that now show slowed or poor job performance.
(Not everything is caught - the first time around.
Some times it takes 2 orders,
And 2 efforts to make a decayed condition - better.
**********************************************.
Verify the now repaired conditions are fully functional.
Make the bill - for all that it took to do the job.
Not some mythical - magical pie in the sky estimate
That has nothing to do with what is right or wrong,
with defective or decayed hand holding inter connected components.
If performing service work on today's generation of
automobiles - no matter what continent they were
manufactured and sold on - was truly an easy task;
Then No caller would need a qualified - experienced
personal assistant to help them with their problems.
The owners could wave thier magic wands ...
And say make it so - I command it.
And do it all themselves - without inflicting themselves
on those of us - who pride ourselves in doing a difficult
job - every day - well done.
"Well done, thou good and faithful servant.
is the only real reward that I will have at the end of it all."
Rowan Cook
A Proud Sponsoring member of
http://iatn.net
http://europeanimportcar.com
******************************.
An unusual thing happened yesterday.
Perhaps it is usual for you - but it is mentally aggravating for me.
A woman caller called.
She did not bother to introduce herself.
She proceded to say;
"I have a question for you".
"I have a 2002 VW jetta.
The window has dropped down."
"I understand that it is a common failure."
"What is wrong with it.
What part or parts need ordered."
"Make it so - so that I get this handled immediately -
Without you ever taking the assembly apart to see
what the problems are."
**********************.
My reply was that:
She needed to bring the vehicle to the shop.
That the door panel must be removed.
That the underlying fault must be identifed.
That the window regulator may need renewed completely ...
or that there may be other issues in hand.
***************************************.
It was as if - I was talking to a wall.
Or at least another language - which she had no interest
in understanding.
After a split moment of no silence ...
she started rattling on again.
I finally had to say ...
You are asking more than a human being can give.
Bring the vehicle to our shop for evaluation.
Then we can really discuss the final costs.
Not good enough of a response.
****************************.
The more she talked ...
The less I wanted to work for her.
and we will not - I guess ever see her.
***********************************.
She was someone who wanted to talk the work to death.
And
Wanted to know the end of the story -
Before even the first page was written.
I guess that I am saying here >
That the process does not change > ever.
Bring the vehicle.
Wait until it is checked.
Order the needed parts.
Install the replacements.
Verify proper operating conditions.
**********************************.
Renew any other defective pieces or parts
that now show slowed or poor job performance.
(Not everything is caught - the first time around.
Some times it takes 2 orders,
And 2 efforts to make a decayed condition - better.
**********************************************.
Verify the now repaired conditions are fully functional.
Make the bill - for all that it took to do the job.
Not some mythical - magical pie in the sky estimate
That has nothing to do with what is right or wrong,
with defective or decayed hand holding inter connected components.
If performing service work on today's generation of
automobiles - no matter what continent they were
manufactured and sold on - was truly an easy task;
Then No caller would need a qualified - experienced
personal assistant to help them with their problems.
The owners could wave thier magic wands ...
And say make it so - I command it.
And do it all themselves - without inflicting themselves
on those of us - who pride ourselves in doing a difficult
job - every day - well done.
"Well done, thou good and faithful servant.
is the only real reward that I will have at the end of it all."
Rowan Cook
A Proud Sponsoring member of
http://iatn.net
http://europeanimportcar.com
******************************.
Monday, January 19, 2009
1992 Chevy s-10 Blazer
I guess that you guys think that these things are extinct.
I did also.
But, I spent Friday last week
and
Today - Monday the 19th of January - wrestling with this
vehicle's gas tank - over a leak that existed cold and went
away hot.
The float unit had it's exterior lines and metal face
deteriorate from exposure to salt and general
ground water spray.
The owner wanted to replace it now -
Even though he was the same "guy"
that had the tank off the last time
who did not replace it when it was seen
to be in sorry conditon - when he changed
the fuel pump.
*****************.
Yes, the owner changed the intank fuel pump himself
this last time.
*******************************************.
The guys who replaced the tank - time before last
cut the 2 factory fuel lines, pressure and return.
The owner had simply followed up with monkeyed
together lines on rust, on cropped off close nipples,
using the small worm gear clamps that often strip.
*******,
So it was that I had to fabricate 2 lines capable
of handling fuel system pressure.
Each one had either a 3/8" id on one end ...
and a 5/16" hose id on the other.
A 1/4" brass union.
A 5/16" hose end.
A 3/8" hose end.
And all the appropriate use of the right length
of higher pressure fuel injection hose was
measured for in length and sourced.
Full circle - fuel injection hose clamps were
used to seal the pressure circuits.
*******************************.
I ground back the rust off the ground wire leg
location on the center rear of the mount of
the tank.
And before attaching all the lines -
installed a little gas in the tank.
Bypassed the fuel pump relay and watched
the pump push fuel out the correct hose -
to make sure that the pressure cirucit was correct.
*********************************************,
Ya know ...
Doing this job right this time -
ate up the better time of 2 days.
It all could have been avoided -
had the men who installed the fuel tank
this last time -
Had they renewed the fuel pump, float unit
and made the necessary line corrections
all
When they installed the fuel tank that had
become a rusted nightmare.
And then sprayed the top end of things with
a rust treatment preventative.
******************************.
Amsoil has such a spray can type of material
that can be used on ATV and Motorcycle chain,
Bare metal that has been fabricated, openings
in firewalls - around wires grommets to seal them
and I use it regular to seal up the top end of battery
terminals.
Click - http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/default.aspx?zo=370577
Type "MPHD" in the Search box in the right upper
corner of this page to read all about howo - $9 could have
stopped having to spend another $500.
Doing it right the first time
eventually you will wind up at a page that looks something
like this >>> .../catalog.aspx?category=14
************************************************.
Using this stuff - will save you time and money.
Especially if you take the time to spray 3 coats on
what you are protecting.
It is a permanent drying material
that drys like wax
and
Does not attract dust or dirt.
Rowan Cook
The Amsoil Service Shop
329 East Main Street
Sophia, WV 25921
304 683-5298
http://europeanimportcar.com
http://rameyautomotivegroup.com
http://computerstore2010.com
http://homeincomeportal.com/rowcoo829
http://dailycash-broughttoyourdoor.com
I did also.
But, I spent Friday last week
and
Today - Monday the 19th of January - wrestling with this
vehicle's gas tank - over a leak that existed cold and went
away hot.
The float unit had it's exterior lines and metal face
deteriorate from exposure to salt and general
ground water spray.
The owner wanted to replace it now -
Even though he was the same "guy"
that had the tank off the last time
who did not replace it when it was seen
to be in sorry conditon - when he changed
the fuel pump.
*****************.
Yes, the owner changed the intank fuel pump himself
this last time.
*******************************************.
The guys who replaced the tank - time before last
cut the 2 factory fuel lines, pressure and return.
The owner had simply followed up with monkeyed
together lines on rust, on cropped off close nipples,
using the small worm gear clamps that often strip.
*******,
So it was that I had to fabricate 2 lines capable
of handling fuel system pressure.
Each one had either a 3/8" id on one end ...
and a 5/16" hose id on the other.
A 1/4" brass union.
A 5/16" hose end.
A 3/8" hose end.
And all the appropriate use of the right length
of higher pressure fuel injection hose was
measured for in length and sourced.
Full circle - fuel injection hose clamps were
used to seal the pressure circuits.
*******************************.
I ground back the rust off the ground wire leg
location on the center rear of the mount of
the tank.
And before attaching all the lines -
installed a little gas in the tank.
Bypassed the fuel pump relay and watched
the pump push fuel out the correct hose -
to make sure that the pressure cirucit was correct.
*********************************************,
Ya know ...
Doing this job right this time -
ate up the better time of 2 days.
It all could have been avoided -
had the men who installed the fuel tank
this last time -
Had they renewed the fuel pump, float unit
and made the necessary line corrections
all
When they installed the fuel tank that had
become a rusted nightmare.
And then sprayed the top end of things with
a rust treatment preventative.
******************************.
Amsoil has such a spray can type of material
that can be used on ATV and Motorcycle chain,
Bare metal that has been fabricated, openings
in firewalls - around wires grommets to seal them
and I use it regular to seal up the top end of battery
terminals.
Click - http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/default.aspx?zo=370577
Type "MPHD" in the Search box in the right upper
corner of this page to read all about howo - $9 could have
stopped having to spend another $500.
Doing it right the first time
eventually you will wind up at a page that looks something
like this >>> .../catalog.aspx?category=14
************************************************.
Using this stuff - will save you time and money.
Especially if you take the time to spray 3 coats on
what you are protecting.
It is a permanent drying material
that drys like wax
and
Does not attract dust or dirt.
Rowan Cook
The Amsoil Service Shop
329 East Main Street
Sophia, WV 25921
304 683-5298
http://europeanimportcar.com
http://rameyautomotivegroup.com
http://computerstore2010.com
http://homeincomeportal.com/rowcoo829
http://dailycash-broughttoyourdoor.com
Sunday, January 18, 2009
38 months on Amsoil 0.30
Hello,
Today, it is 17 January 2009.
It was June of 2005, my wife and I bought a used Ford Contour.
2.5 L v-6 engine.
We did the usual things - service the brakes - front and rear.
Have had to renew the water pump and alternator.
But the first month - we had the car, we did 2 other things ...
We had to remove the both upper and lower intake manifolds
for deteriorated end seals - vacumn leaks and lean burn fault codes
and clean out the accumulated blowby gas deposit buildups in
all 6 of the intake port runners,
and remove the deposits in the EGR valve and
throttle plate passage ways.
But also, After all that ...
We installed Amsoil 0.30.
This vehicle had 168,000 miles at the time.
What we did was to keep the crankcase filled ...
As the engine has some minor leaks.
And we have operated this engine without oil change
and without the addition of the extra filtration
for 38 months use.
And as it played out ...
The only reason that we did change it was that another
Ford vehicle - a F 150 came in for it's oil change service.
And the Amsoil in it's engine had a year and 13,000 miles
service on it.
I caught the oil in a clean pan.
The F 150 oil filter was the same filter as the wife's Contour
And we changed both of them that day.
Not because the Contour needed it's oil changed ...
But because the F 150 oil and filter was available to us free.
With less than 1/3rd the mileage and time use on it.
And ... we fully intend to run this engine oil until we need to
change it ... or someone wrecks or runs into our car.
In our 15 years of doing Amsoil ... we have never - ever really
had a vehicle that had intake manifolds leak antifreeze into
the engine oil ... and have usually seen 5 year oil change intervals.
Yes,
I will not throw our money away on any engine lubriant
and filter that does not have anything less than a guaranteed
1 year/25,000 or 35,000 mile service life.
If we need make up oil ... then I top off with Amsoil's 0.20
and keep on smiling.
To date, we are heading into 5 months of use -
NO hesitation to start - even in 4 degree weather
this last week ...
And no indication that the vehicle has needed more than
a pint in make up oil - since August of 08.
Now with 194,000 and still running strong.
**************************************.
My next service should be to change the transmission
fluid and filter, and install Amsoil ATF.
Even for those folks who don't have a clue ...
And have never heard of such a thing ...
The ATF is a lifetime fluid - past 300,000 miles service life
(normal - Non towing service life) trouble free ... And I love it!
Incredible!
Rowan Cook
The Amsoil Service Shop
329 East Main St.
PO Box 399
Sophia, WV 25921
304 683-5298
http://www.syntheticlubricants.org
Today, it is 17 January 2009.
It was June of 2005, my wife and I bought a used Ford Contour.
2.5 L v-6 engine.
We did the usual things - service the brakes - front and rear.
Have had to renew the water pump and alternator.
But the first month - we had the car, we did 2 other things ...
We had to remove the both upper and lower intake manifolds
for deteriorated end seals - vacumn leaks and lean burn fault codes
and clean out the accumulated blowby gas deposit buildups in
all 6 of the intake port runners,
and remove the deposits in the EGR valve and
throttle plate passage ways.
But also, After all that ...
We installed Amsoil 0.30.
This vehicle had 168,000 miles at the time.
What we did was to keep the crankcase filled ...
As the engine has some minor leaks.
And we have operated this engine without oil change
and without the addition of the extra filtration
for 38 months use.
And as it played out ...
The only reason that we did change it was that another
Ford vehicle - a F 150 came in for it's oil change service.
And the Amsoil in it's engine had a year and 13,000 miles
service on it.
I caught the oil in a clean pan.
The F 150 oil filter was the same filter as the wife's Contour
And we changed both of them that day.
Not because the Contour needed it's oil changed ...
But because the F 150 oil and filter was available to us free.
With less than 1/3rd the mileage and time use on it.
And ... we fully intend to run this engine oil until we need to
change it ... or someone wrecks or runs into our car.
In our 15 years of doing Amsoil ... we have never - ever really
had a vehicle that had intake manifolds leak antifreeze into
the engine oil ... and have usually seen 5 year oil change intervals.
Yes,
I will not throw our money away on any engine lubriant
and filter that does not have anything less than a guaranteed
1 year/25,000 or 35,000 mile service life.
If we need make up oil ... then I top off with Amsoil's 0.20
and keep on smiling.
To date, we are heading into 5 months of use -
NO hesitation to start - even in 4 degree weather
this last week ...
And no indication that the vehicle has needed more than
a pint in make up oil - since August of 08.
Now with 194,000 and still running strong.
**************************************.
My next service should be to change the transmission
fluid and filter, and install Amsoil ATF.
Even for those folks who don't have a clue ...
And have never heard of such a thing ...
The ATF is a lifetime fluid - past 300,000 miles service life
(normal - Non towing service life) trouble free ... And I love it!
Incredible!
Rowan Cook
The Amsoil Service Shop
329 East Main St.
PO Box 399
Sophia, WV 25921
304 683-5298
http://www.syntheticlubricants.org
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
